Undercut haircut
The undercut: clipper-short sides and back, a long top and a sharp line between them. Photos, styles, who it suits and care tips from Lumberjack barbers.
The undercut: clipper-short sides and back, a long top and a sharp line between them. Photos, styles, who it suits and care tips from Lumberjack barbers.
What is an undercut haircut
An undercut is a men’s haircut in which the sides and back are clipped short, almost to the skin, while the top is left long, with no gradual blend between the two zones. Contrast is the whole point: a clear line marks where the lengths meet, and the long hair on top is worn back, to the side or up. Hence the name — the hair is literally cut short underneath.
The undercut is all about contrast: the sides and back are clipped to 0–3 mm, while the top stays 50–120 mm long. Unlike a fade, the border between the zones is not blended away — it remains a visible line, and that line makes an undercut recognisable from across the street. The name says it: the hair is cut short underneath.
The silhouette comes down to three decisions. First, the height of the line: low above the ears looks restrained, high up near the crown looks bold. Second, the length on top: from short pieces you style with your fingers to long strands that fall to the eyebrows. Third, the border itself: a sharp “step” for the classic look or a slightly softer edge when you want less graphic contrast.
The barber cuts the top with scissors, or combines scissors and clippers, so the long hair has shape rather than just length. How the top is cut decides how it can be styled: slicked back, side-parted, textured up or with a loose strand over the forehead.
The sides vary too. The shortest option is clippers with no guard, when the skin barely shows through. If you want the sides to look darker and softer, the barber will leave a few millimetres. The line is usually set at the widest part of the head, so the top sits evenly and does not collapse onto the temples.
To explain what you want, remember three things: length on top, height of the line, direction of styling. That is enough for the barber to get the idea, and the photos in the gallery below will do the rest.
The undercut is not a single hairstyle but a family of looks. The “short below, long on top” principle underlies the pompadour, some crops and modern voluminous quiffs. What sets the undercut apart is the lack of blending: the lengths do not flow into one another, they simply meet.
Barbers often use English names for the variations: slicked back undercut, disconnected undercut with an emphatically sharp border, short undercut with a short top. There is also the faded undercut, where the lower part of the sides is blended while the border with the top stays sharp.
At Lumberjack Barberhouse the undercut is done as part of the Men’s Haircut service. The barber first asks how you wear your hair at home, looks at the shape of your head and the direction of growth, and only then decides on the height of the line and the length on top.
The undercut is older than it looks: it was fashionable from the 1910s to the 1940s. In the early 20th century it was a favourite of young working-class men in Britain’s industrial cities, and in the Jazz Age of the 1920s and 1930s it became mainstream fashion.
The short version: the undercut appeared in the early 20th century among young British workers, went mainstream in the Jazz Age, faded in the 1960s and came back in the early 2010s. Styling products have changed over a hundred years, but the formula has not — short sides, long top.
History of the undercut: from street gangs to barbershops
The reason was practical. Street gangs — Glasgow’s Neds, Manchester’s Scuttlers and Birmingham’s Peaky Blinders — wore their hair cropped at the back and sides because long hair was a disadvantage in a street fight. World War I military barbers gave soldiers “short back and sides” cuts as fast as possible, both because of the numbers and for hygiene in the trenches. That is how a practical cut from the streets and barracks moved into everyday life.
In Britain and the US the undercut remained common until the 1960s, when the mods made longer hair fashionable. It got a second life in the late 1980s among fans of new wave, synth-pop and electronic music: the version of the time had a centre parting and looked like a bowl cut with a shaved underside. The third comeback arrived in the early 2010s, when hipsters, skaters and punks began copying the 1930s and 1940s versions.
Fun fact: the name of one of the gangs that wore the undercut became the name of a TV series. Peaky Blinders (BBC, 2013) tells the story of an early-20th-century Birmingham gang, and its characters’ haircuts — short sides with a longer top — became one of the most recognisable men’s looks of the 2010s. A funny full circle: a cut once worn so as not to lose a street fight came back as a style statement.
Notable fans of the 2010s wave include footballer David Beckham and rapper Macklemore. So when a barber tells you the undercut is over a hundred years old, it is no exaggeration — styling products have simply got better since.
Undercut at a glance
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50–120 mmLength on top.
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0–3 mmSides and back, clippers.
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45–75 minTime in the chair.
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2–3 weeksBetween side touch-ups.
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1–3 minStyling with wax or pomade.
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from 500 UAHHaircut price.
Who the undercut suits
Face shape. The undercut sits most easily on an oval face. A round or square face benefits from a taller top swept upwards, which stretches the silhouette vertically while the short sides add no width. If your face is long, keep the line lower and avoid big volume on the crown: a side-swept top or a light fringe balances the proportions. A side sweep covers a high forehead, while strong cheekbones are worth showing off with a slick-back.
Hair type. The undercut works well on straight and wavy hair. Thick hair gives volume effortlessly, while fine hair needs texturising with scissors and a light product so the top does not stick to the head. On curly hair the top is left a little longer so the curls have weight and do not stick out. If you have a cowlick on the crown, the barber will take it into account and suggest a styling direction that keeps it in check.
Age and style. A slicked-back undercut goes with a suit as well as a hoodie, which is why both students and executives wear it. For the office, go for a lower line and a neat slick-back; for the weekend, texture and more contrast. Boys and teenagers get a softer version with a lower line — it is easy to look after and does not look too harsh. With a beard, the undercut gives a balanced silhouette: the lower and upper parts of the head carry equal weight.
Who should think twice. If you are not ready to spend a few minutes on styling in the morning, or the hair on your crown is very thin, your barber will suggest a fade or a crop — they are easier to wear every day. And remember: an undercut exposes the temples, so any scars or birthmarks there will show. Not sure? Come in with your questions: the barber will explain which version suits you before switching on the clippers.
Price of Undercut haircut
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Junior Barber
500 ₴ -
Barber
750 ₴ -
Sr. Barber
900 ₴ -
TOP Barber
1 000 ₴ -
Ambassador
1 100 ₴
* A good haircut lasts longer when it comes with a tip.
Look variations
Short undercut with a beard
The top is cut short and textured forward, the sides are clipped almost to the skin. A full beard balances the short top and gives the look weight. An option for those who want minimal styling and a clean silhouette every day.
- Top: a few centimetres, texturised with scissors.
- Sides and back: clipper-short.
- Temples blend smoothly into the beard.
- Styling: fingers, with a drop of product or none at all.
Classic slicked-back undercut
The undercut of the 1920s and 1930s: a longer top combed back and slightly up, short sides, a sharp border. A neat everyday option that works with a white T-shirt as well as a shirt, and looks fresh and put-together on a young face.
- Top: long enough to comb back.
- Volume at the forehead: blow-dryer and comb.
- Product: light-hold pomade or cream.
- Side touch-ups: every 2–3 weeks.
Disconnected undercut
The sides and temples are taken high, and the long top is lifted with texture. The border between the zones is a sharp step with no transition at all. A bold look that works especially well with a beard and moustache and pairs easily with glasses.
- High line: almost up to the crown.
- Top: textured and lifted up.
- Styling: matte paste or wax.
- For those who like a striking silhouette.
Long side-swept undercut
The long top falls to the side in a loose wave and can drop over the forehead, while the sides stay short. This undercut gives the most freedom: side-swept today, slicked back tomorrow, a little messy the day after. It takes patience while the top grows, but the result is worth it.
- Top: the longest of the four styles.
- Styling: blow-dryer and medium-hold product.
- Looks especially good on wavy hair.
- Needs a few minutes every morning.
Undercut pros and cons
The undercut looks sharp and tidy, but short sides grow out fast and a long top needs styling. The main pros are a clean silhouette and several looks from one cut; the main cons are frequent touch-ups and a few minutes at the mirror every day.
Before you take the chair, weigh the pros and cons: an undercut gives a clean silhouette and styling freedom, but it needs regular side touch-ups and a few minutes at the mirror every morning.
Pro: a clean silhouette. The contrast in length emphasises the shape of your head and cheekbones — the cut stands out from a distance.
Pro: several looks from one cut. The long top can be combed back, swept to the side or lifted with texture.
Pro: comfortable in the heat. Short sides and back keep you cool and dry quickly after a shower or the gym.
Pro: works with any style. From a suit to sportswear — the undercut is not tied to a dress code.
Pro: great with a beard. Short sides and a beard together make a balanced, grown-up look.
Pro: easy to change the mood. To soften the look, simply lower the line or add a fade at your next cut.
Con: the sides grow out fast. To keep the border sharp, you need a touch-up every 2–3 weeks.
Con: without styling the top falls flat. Long hair needs product and a few minutes every morning.
Con: exposed temples. Scars, birthmarks and irritation on the sides of the head will show.
Con: growing it out takes time. To switch to another cut, the sides have to catch up with the top, and that takes months.
Con: not for a very thin top. If there is little hair on the crown, the contrast with short sides will only emphasise it.
Undercut care and how often to refresh it
- TOUCH-UPS
Refresh the sides and back every 2–3 weeks to keep the border sharp and the cut graphic.
The top can be trimmed less often, when it loses shape. - STYLING
For a slick-back — pomade or cream, for texture — matte paste or wax, for curls — cream.
Apply product to partly blow-dried hair, working from the back to the front. - WASHING
Wash styling products out every evening with a shampoo that suits your hair.
Conditioner helps a long top sit more obediently.
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Blow-dry the top in the direction you style it — the shape will hold longer.
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Do not shave the sides yourself — it is easy to cut off the line.
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Show your barber a photo of the style you want — it makes agreeing on the line height easier.
How we cut an undercut, and how it differs from a fade
The steps. First comes a conversation: the barber asks how you style your hair and how much time you are ready to spend on it, and assesses the shape of your head. Then the barber marks the line, clips the sides and back, cuts the top with scissors, works on the border and edges, and finishes by styling your hair and explaining how to repeat it at home. If your hair has grown out, bring a photo of the style you want: it makes it easier to decide how much to leave on top.
Time and price. The cut takes 45–75 minutes, depending on the length on top and the complexity of the line. Prices start from 500 UAH, and the exact cost depends on the barber’s level — all levels and prices are in the block above. You can book online at any of the ten Lumberjack barbershops in Kyiv.
Undercut or fade: the difference. In a fade the short length blends gradually upwards; in an undercut the border between the sides and the top stays sharp. A fade is about softness, an undercut about contrast. You can combine them: faded sides with a long, undercut-style top. If in doubt, start with a fade: moving from a fade to an undercut is easy, the other way round takes longer.
Undercut, pompadour, crop and boks. The pompadour is big volume swept up and back, and it often sits on an undercut. The crop is a short textured top with a forward fringe. The boks, a short sporty cut, is the shortest of the family: minimal length on top and almost no styling. All of these are in our lookbook — see the tags below.
Most frequent questions
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What is the difference between an undercut and a fade?
In a fade the length on the sides blends gradually from short to longer; in an undercut a sharp border remains between the short sides and the long top. A fade looks softer, an undercut more contrasting. You can combine both: faded sides with a long top.
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Can a boy get an undercut?
Yes. For kids the barber does a softer version: a lower line, less contrast and a top the child can comb on his own. Book the Kids’ Haircut service — it starts from 450 UAH, and the barber will choose a length that works for school and sports.
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What does an undercut look like from the back?
The back is clipped short, like the temples, and the long top ends above it in a clean line. You choose the height of the line at the back: low looks restrained, high looks bolder. The barber edges the neckline so the back looks tidy.
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Does an undercut work on curly hair?
Yes, curls on a long top contrast strikingly with short sides. The top is left a little longer so the curls have weight and do not stick out, and cream is used for styling instead of wax — it holds the shape without clumping the curls.
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What does an undercut with a fringe look like?
The long top is combed forward so a strand falls over the forehead as a straight or angled fringe. This version is softer than the classic slick-back and needs no big volume. It also covers a high forehead well.
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How long does an undercut last?
The shape of the top lasts longer, but the sides grow out fast: to keep the border sharp, touch-ups are done every 2–3 weeks. How long your styling holds during the day depends on the product and your hair type — your barber will help you choose.
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How much does an undercut cost in Kyiv?
At Lumberjack the undercut is part of the Men’s Haircut service — from 500 UAH. The price depends on the barber’s level; all prices are in the block above and on the service page. The cut takes 45–75 minutes.
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Can I pair an undercut with a beard?
Yes, it is one of the best combinations: a beard balances the short sides, and the temples blend smoothly into it. If you want your beard refreshed too, choose the Complex — haircut and beard in one visit.
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How to choose the best barbershop in Kyiv?
Review portfolio, ratings, barbers’ experience, hygiene protocols, and transparent pricing. A proper consultation and clear communication are key.
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What services does a modern barbershop usually offer?
Men’s haircuts, beard shaping and shaving, gray blending, facial and scalp care, plus home-care recommendations.
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How to book and understand barbershop pricing?
Book online or by phone; current prices and durations are listed on service pages. Choose a barber by style and experience.
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